Roots (Chronicle, $40), by Diane Morgan, is an ideal testament to the hidden vegetables it celebrates: an encyclopedia of simple and clean recipes, perfect for a nourishing, elegant midweek meal. There’s no didacticism or dogma here, nor is this dinnerparty fare. Throughout, Morgan focuses on the inherent flavors of the vegetables, with seasonings added to bring out the natural taste of the roots. The author’s own Pacific Northwest culinary roots definitely shine through: there’s ease and palpable warmth in her writing. Reading Roots you can feel yourself in the kitchen with Morgan, devouring meals made with love, precision, and a little bit of dirt. Indeed, in my house her recipe for French Breakfast Radishes with Herb Butter and Sel Gris was devoured by my whole family, in happy, silent gulps.
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